The morning started overcast. In fact, the low lying cloud made for fog and we drove slowly, with headlights, and picked our way along the narrow winding road. We stocked up with some water and other trail provisions for a days hiking, at the petrol station shop, shortly after it opened at 7am, and headed into the national park. We had to drive about 30 minutes to the end point of our hike, leave our car there, and pick up a shuttle back to the start.   
 I have to say, I was concerned, heading out into that wilderness. I did not have proper Ordnance Survey maps and obviously, I had never been to the area before. I was assured that the track was clear and, “You can’t get lost”. Sure, I thought ….. Famous last words. As it turned out, I felt a bit foolish with my concerns. The shuttle driver told me that it was a quiet day. There were only about five hundred people on the mountain! Five hundred!!! It was a little like a parade. And all going the one way. “Lost”, was not going to be a problem. 

   
    
Crowds aside, it is one fabulous hike. The first section to Soda Springs took exactly an hour. I could describe the area as an empty barren land, but that would not do justice to the beauty of the place. Yes, it is a pretty barren, dusty, volcanic region. There is no wild life and hardly a bird to be seen. Yet, the vast, dark, rock strewn expanse has it’s own magic. And the further you move into it, the more you become part of it. 

    
After a relatively easy first hour, we started to climb. The rise to South Crater is steep. It is dusty and loose underfoot. And it is hot. It is worth the effort though. The valley floor opens up below and behind, to reward us at our frequent, (very frequent), pauses. We cross the south crater, a wide, desert like, yellow disc, that looks like it was left here by gods of an ancient time. Then a second climb. Steeper. Dustier. Looser. Arriving at the top, all tiredness and care is lifted with the site of the Blue Lake. This beautiful lake, set high and strange in this barren, volcanic mountain, is stunning. A most magnificent spot to stop for lunch. 

  
Half an hour later, we move on. We begin our descent, down a steep and very slippery, sand and scree track, by the Emerald Lakes, (sulphurous and very smelly), through the mountain pass. Once through, the whole landscape changes. A zig zag route for several miles through bush, leads down to a lovely, cool, green forest trail. It would have been worth coming, for this part alone. It delivers us, after a couple of hours to the trail end and our car.

  
A fantastic hike. A fabulous day. An unforgettable crossing. 

   
 Back to the car and on to Taihape for the night. It seems to be the home of the Wellington boot! No! I have no idea why either. It also has streets named after birds, with the appropriate bird on each signpost. How nice is that!