Thank god we’re out of the flatlands. We have spent days walking across flat open track, uninteresting for the most part and much of it close to busy roads, so that we had noise and traffic smells for company.

We finished yesterday in a town called Hospital de Órbigo. The entrance to it was across a beautiful bridge that’s built on top of a bridge, that’s built on top of a bridge, etc., going back to Roman times.

There is a wonderful albergue there, with gorgeous food served and sing-songs after dinner and generally good craic. We didn’t find it. We stayed in an albergue that is probably a thousand years old. I can’ t imagine how many monks, pilgrims and Knights Templar have slept in that room before. It was very atmospheric, but not much action. And we had to cook our own dinner. That is to say, Vicki had to cook our own dinner. I poured the wine. And opened the pasta pack.

Today we got back into the hills. What a relief! Pleasant countryside, varying landscape, the track rising and falling through farmland. Oh yes, and rain. Well it wasn’t too bad really. More threatening than real with occasional mist. Enough to make you keep your coat on.

Then we were attacked by a Roman legion. We went through the lovely town of Astorga in the early afternoon. Today is a holiday for Mayday. Lots of celebrations and festivities going on. People in costume. Parades, markets. And the attack of the 4th legion. We escaped. But not before having lunch.

We hiked on as far as a village called El Ganso. This leaves us relatively close to the mountains for our climb tomorrow when we reach the highest point on the Camino at Punto Alto (1,515m), and also the Cruz de Ferro, where we will leave all our troubles behind.

I hope it keeps fine!