I may have changed my mind about the French Air Traffic controllers. Well softened a little anyway. Without them and their strike, I’d have started from Pamplona and missed this crossing of the Pyranees from France into Spain. And it was worth not missing.

We start out just after 8am. The sun has not been up long before us but, even though still low in the east, he rules the sky. There is not a single cloud to compete. It’s a steady climb all morning as we rise to 1,450 m, (about 4,700 feet). We are constantly meeting, passing or being passed by, friends from last night. We catch up, talk for a few minutes and move on. Everyone at their own pace. Everyone with their own thoughts.

On the higher ground, there is snow. I don’t know why I am surprised by this, but I am. Long stretches of the track are covered in snow and I pick my way across it, as carefully as is possible with 10 kgs on my back. These careful steps bring me over a small, not very interesting looking cattle grid, that marks my crossing from France into Spain. At the highest point, Col de Lepoeder, (which, by the way, I thought was the highest point on the Camino, until I was told this evening that no, that little bit of excitement doesn’t come for about three more weeks – something to look forward to), the snow was about 6 feet deep. The poles marking the track were barely poking their heads over it. The map shows a road here, but it can’t be seen. Buried below.

The target for the day had been Roncesvalles, but we arrive there at 1 o’clock, which seems a bit early for a finish. We have a sandwich and a beer and decide to push on to Espinal. As the afternoon gets hotter and the feet get tireder, we cross a little bridge over the Urrobi river. Off with the shoes and socks, sit on a stone and plunge the feet in. Jeez, that’s cold! It’s like ice. The pain of the walking instantly gives way to the pain of the cold water. Pure torture! Why do I do it? Still, when I get my feet dry and my socks back on then, boy does it feel good.

In Espinal we find a lovely Albergue, and actually get a private room, a luxury on the Camino. We have dinner there with Kastos from Denmark and with Daniel and Gina who are both from Berlin but who did not know each other before this evening. Time for a few drinks with Kastos before bed. What a wonderful day.