Our Camino began in St. James’ Gate in Dublin, where we collected our passports and had them stamped in the church of St James and again in the Guinness brewery, where they take pride in their centuries old connection with the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. But that was weeks ago. Really, it began as we arrived now in Dublin airport. And with it, our first piece of luck! The good people of Ryanair had randomly allocated us seats in row 17. Guess what! It’s the emergency exit row. Lots of extra legroom. Lots of extra space. A little bonus to send us off in good form. And it worked!

We arrived in Biarritz and went to checkout transport to St Jean. Of course we had checked this out online, (doesn’t everyone), and we knew that there was a shuttle from €15. From €15!! Note the word “from”. It was quite a long way from! €120 per person. That’s how far from. We also knew that there was a bus to Bayonne railway station, with connecting train to St Jean, so,I asked at the Information desk at the airport. This desk, I have to say, is staffed by the nicest, friendliest lady ever to sit at an Information desk. “Yes”, she said. “You take the number 14 bus, from outside the door, to Bayonne. They run every half hour. €1 per person. Off to Bayonne with us for €1 each. At Bayonne railway station we discovered that there is no train to St Jean. The track has been subject to falling rock and is out of use for repair. There is however, a bus. Going in one hour, €10.

On the bus we met fellow pilgrim, (we’re pilgrims now, by the way), James. James has done the Camino three times, twice on a bicycle. We tell him our plan to stay in St Jean tonight and head for Roncesvalles tomorrow.

“That’s a long way”, says the experienced James. “25 kms and over 4,500 feet of a climb”. James had a suggestion. “Check in at St Jean, then hike as far as the albergue (pilgrim hostel) Orisson. This is about 7 kms along the route. It can be easily made in time for dinner and takes the pressure off next day. We took his advice and so here we are at Orisson. A lovely dinner. A glass of wine. Good company among brand new friends from Germany, South Korea, Australia and US. A welcome shower. And so to bed.